QUILL LOCK - TEST REPAIR

Warco WMT300/2 (similar to the Clarke, Grizzly 4015 and Smithy 1220)




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The mill head casting broke while I was tightening up the quill lock.
A new bare casting is around 110 pounds so a replacement is out of the question. I have pondered over how to go about repairing this for years and always ended up doing nothing about it.
Here is a test repair, and it seems to work.
I threw this together quickly and will probably redo the whole thing now I know the dimensions needed.


↓ Here is broken casting
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↓ Two holes were drilled in the casting, and tapped for M8 bolts.
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↓ A bracket was made from angle iron.

 

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↓ A block was made to go on the end of the bracket.
Now I know what will fit I will replace this temporary block with a better one later.
The block is secured to the angle iron by a threaded stud, and a cap head screw from below.
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↓ The assembly was secured to the mill head with two M8 bolts.
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↓ A longer locking handle was made, to save reaching behind the mill head each time.
Four tapped holes are provided so that the handle can be positioned appropriately.
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↓ The completed test assembly.
When the handle is tightened the mill head casting is tightened around the quill.
To prevent the quill from moving up and down I still have to do the clamp up really tight.
I think there is something wrong with the bored casting and quill dimensions.
Still, this clamp allows the quill to be snugged up enough to be rigid whilst milling.
I will live with it for a while and see if it needs improving.
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↓ This is a picture of someone elses clamp arrangment (Ned Seith I think).
His slit is way longer than the one on my mill.
Perhaps that is why mine needs so much force to clamp the quill tightly?
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