QUILL NOSE PLATE

Warco WMT300/2 (similar to the Clarke, Grizzly 4015 and Smithy 1220)




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A number of fixtures can be attached to the quill nose plate i.e. depth stop, dti mount, perspex screens.
The Quill Nose Plate in conjunction with the Quill Depth Stop adds rigidity to the Quill, and is an improvement.

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↓ This aluminium plate has been kicking around the workshop for a few years and I have finally found a good use for it.
I have resisted the temptation to use it for other jobs, because it was too good a size plate to waste.
It was used as a motor mount on a Perfecto shaper I bought.

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↓ The plate is bored to the same diameter as the quill nose.
The plate is not bored completely through. The lip that is left will help align the plate on the quill nose.
The finish in the bore is not good because I did not clamp the plate down properly.
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↓ Before I started this job I made a test piece that was exactly the same diameter as the quill nose.
The test piece avoids having to measure the wide bore accurately, or remove the plate from the chuck.
Here is the test piece checking the bore.
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↓ The plate is offered up to the quill for a trial fit.
Now we are getting somewhere.
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↓ This shows the plate being shaped and the M6 clamp bolt fitted.

I secured the plate to my trusty home made milling raising block. I use this fixture a lot in the lathe and mill.
Here I have had to further raise the work by securing it to an accurate wheel bearing sleeve. This avoids extending the mill quill too much.
This mounting method also allows me to easily change the angle of the plate for the 45 degree milling cuts.
Surprisingly it is a very rigid set up.
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↓ When I came to drill the hole for the clamp bolt, the plate was too wide and the 6mm drill was not long enough to go through from one end.
So, I had to change plan and reduce the width in the clamp bolt area. If you look closely you will see the 45 degree angles are out because I have reduced the width on one side.
I eventually got it all symmetrical.
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↓ This shows the slitting of the plate for the clamp bolt.
This was the first time I had used the slitting saw.
It was very wobbly, but did cut a nice straight slit.
The last shot shows it coming out on the line.
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↓ Now I can clamp the plate to the quill nose.
It is a very rigid and tight fit. I am pleased about this.
I spent an hour or so and hand finished the plate. I worked my way through the wet and dry papers, 160,240,400.
I could spend more time on it and get a mirror finish but I like the 'brushed' effect.
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↓ The original nose protector had a ring of felt that prevented debris getting into the bottom quill bearing.
I made a ring to fit round the lower part of the nose and made a recess for the felt ring.
The ring fits on the underside of the plate with two M4 screws.
The ring sure has a nice finish on the outside.
I had to leave the recess rough because I had already machined too much off, and taking any more metal off would leave the recess for the felt oversized.

Here is the ring being made on the end of a scrap piece of mild steel. I just love making stuff out of nothing.
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↓ Here is the felt in the recess. The felt has got a 'set' in it, because it was not properly installed in the original nose at the factory.
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↓ Here is the ring being fitted to the underside of the quill nose plate.
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