| FRONT WHEEL BEARING - PEUGEOT 306 2.0 HDI year 2000 |
1. Removing the bearing from the hub
NOTES: I did not remove the ABS sensor from the hub as I think it would have got destroyed in the attempt.
↓ Although acceptable, I did not want to go at this bearing job with a heavy hammer.
↓ I placed a flat piece of 15mm thick steel on the support block.
↓ The hub is placed on the support.
↓ The outer race of the bearing has to be pressed downwards and out of the hub.
↓ I placed a drift on the bearing. The drift contacts the outer race of the bearing.
↓ It took a couple of blows to move the bearing a millimetre or so. This was enough to free it up.
↓ This is the homemade press tool in action (making the press tool)
↓ The stud is tightened and the old bearing starts to emerge.
↓ That is a 600mm breaker bar on that 19mm socket.
↓ The bearing is fully removed.
↓ Here is a view of the wheel bearing recess in the hub.
↓ Here was the state of the ball cages.
↓ When the hub flange was pressed out of the wheel bearing, part of the inner race of the bearing remained on the hub flange.
↓ I decided the best controlled way to remove the bearing from the flange was to turn it off in the lathe.
↓ I removed much of the bearing metal, but not all of it because I did not want to risk marking the shaft bearing surface.
↓ The bearing was now very thin and brittle.
↓ I easily snapped off some bearing material.
↓ Success. I eventually managed to ease the rest of the bearing off the flange shaft.
↓ The large circlip must be removed before the bearing can be pressed out from the hub.
↓ Eventually I found I did not need all 4 nuts on the right hand leg, and 2 was sufficient.
↓ The tool is tightened by moving the two nuts on the right (one at the top and one at the bottom) towards the left.
↓ Here are the 3 stand off.
↓ Each stand off is tapped M6 to accept a socket screw.
↓ One leg is modified to clear the curvature of the hub.
↓ The stand offs are in their position on the hub.
↓ The flat plate is made from 15mm thick steel.
↓ Here is the finished flat plate with 3 holes for the stand offs.
↓ The stand offs attached to the flat plate.
↓ The flat plate in position on the hub.
↓ Machining a circular drift in the bandsaw.
↓ Machining a circular drift in the lathe.
↓ Assembling the circular drift.
↓ A 12mm hole is drilled in the flat plate to accept the stud that is attached to the circular drift.
↓ Machining a circular drift. This doughnut drift will be used during the installation of the new bearing.
↓ Here are all the parts I eventually made use off. The old bearing shell is now part of this kit.
↓ For installation, the M12 stud is firmly attached to the flat plate.
↓ The flat plate is held in the vice by the nut.
↓ The hub is placed on the flat plate.
↓ The new bearing is placed in position.
↓ The old bearing outer race is placed on the new bearing.
↓ The doughnut drift is placed over the old race.
↓ Another drift is placed over the doughnut drift (for extra support) and the 12mm nut is placed on the stud.
↓ Here is the bearing midway during the pressing session.
↓ Eventually the bearing touched down on the lip of the bearing hole in the hub.
↓ Here is the circlip end of the bearing.
Sorry, I have mislaid the photos that describe this procedure.
I made a tubular spacer that fitted over the shaft of the hub flange and which seated against the inner race of the new wheel bearing.